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Planting the Sunset Red Maple Tree
Sunset Red Maple trees are fairly easy to plant because they arefairly rugged and durable. Yet to plant or transplant them youdo need to follow some basic guidelines. These trees are similarin planting to Autum Flame and October Glory maple. Red Maplesare sometimes known as Swamp Maples. This name gives away itshabitat being located naturally in moist areas of open woodlandsand commonly along creeks and bottomlands. These soils areconstantly moist to wet. Red Maples are found throughout theNorth Eastern States.These trees when grown in the open reach 70feet tall by 40 feet wide. This tree is sturdier than the SilverMaple and is a delight to own in back yard as a shade tree. On of our finest selections is the Sunset Red Maple. The SunsetRed Maple tree is a fast growing hybrid red maple tree. ThisAcer rubrum cultivar was developed by J. Frank Schmidt and SonNursery. A Red Sunset red maple is one of the finest trees youcan plant at your home. Red Sunset foliage is a lustrous greenin the summer, which changes to brilliant shades of red andorange-red in the fall. We have a large selection of liners andsome 2″ caliper stock ready for your selection. All people handling seedlings and small trees need to help withthe life support of your plants. Seedlings are like fish out ofwater and need care which is often overlooked between the timethe seedlings are lifted and transplanted. Improper care meanshigher mortality. Do not try and reinvent the wheel. You mustprotect seedling from moisture and temperature extremes, as wellas physical damage. Seedlings are living and should be handledcarefully. For a higher survival rate, treat trees carefully andplant them immediately. I like to have a backup plan forplanting if the weather turns bad. I will sometimes switch fromlining out the seedlings to potting them up if I realize thatthe soil conditions will not be right for an extended lenght oftime. If planting must be delayed a few days, keep the plants ina cold, protected place with air circulation between the trees.Keep the trees out of the rain and wind. To check if the treesneed water, feel the media at the roots.. If it isn’t damp,water the trees and allow the excess water to drain. In cool,damp weather, the biggest threat to these trees is from mold.Try to keep out of soil seedlings moist by either restrictingwater loss with a water vapor barrier or by wetting the roots atregular intervals. While handling or planting try to reducetemperature and air movement around the seedlings. Windy dayscan dry out seedlings so consider waiting for calmer weather.Once your soil conditions are correct OUR FREE USE PLANTERS willmake planting a snap so its will be worth waiting for goodplanting conditions. HOW TO PLANT Ideal planting days are cool and cloudy with little or no wind.If possible, avoid planting on warm, windy days. The soil shouldbe moist not wet. Care in planting is more important than speed.Make sure the roots are never allowed to become dry. Bare rootseedlings should be carried in a waterproof bag or bucket withplenty of moist material packed around the roots to keep themdamp. Ideally, bare root boxes should be kept refrigerated orpacked in ice or snow. Don’t freeze the trees. Competition fromweeds, grass, brush or other trees is very detrimental tosurvival and growth of seedlings. Choose areas free from thiscompetition or clear at least a three-foot square bare spotbefore planting. Seedlings should not be planted under the crownof existing trees, or closer than 6 feet to existing brush.Avoid areas near walnut trees. Brush aside loose organicmaterial such as leaves, grass, etc., from the planting spot toexpose mineral soil. If organic matter gets into the plantinghole, it can decompose and leave air spaces. Roots will dry outwhen they grow into these spaces. Open up the hole, making surethe hole is deep enough for the roots to be fully extended. Ifroots are curled or bunched up, the tree will not be able totake up water correctly, will often weaken and die, or may blowdown later due to poor root structure. Take a tree out of yourplanting bag or bucket only after a hole is ready. When exposed,the fine roots can dry out in as little as 30 seconds. Seedlingshoots and roots lose water to air, roots require moreprotecting.Unlike leaves ,they do not have stomata (closeableopenings on the surface of the leaves) or any waxy coatings tohelp reduce water loss. If the roots apear dry they are probablydead. Now I know you are thinking,”I will place them in abuckect of water and store them there until planting”. This willnot work. Submerge plants for no longer that a couple ofminutes. Placing them in water cuts them off from oxygen.Remember to remove the container before planting a containerizedtree. A helpful hint to all those new gardeners just starting isto remember to always plant green side up. Hold the seedling inplace in the hole, making sure the roots are straight, fullyextended and that the tree is neither too shallow or too deep inthe hole. Fill hole, allowing soil to fall in around the roots.Tamp with hands or with your heel. Don’t crush the roots byjumping up and down around the seedling like there is a snakecurled up around the seedling. It is delicate. Fill with moresoil, if necessary, and tamp. Tamping is important. If soil isnot firmly packed around the roots, there will be air pocketsthat can dry out the roots, and the seedlings may be weaklyanchored. It is far easier to plant the tree strait up then havethe tree leaning and have to adjust the tree later. (Addition offertilizer and plant vitamins at the time of planting is notgenerally necessary.) Take your time in planting. Proper spacingwill help you grow a more valuable crop. I have tried to getmore production from a limited area by over planting and thenthinning, but I always have had trouble in harvesting ….digging is slower and poor quality usually results for a portionof the crop. Avoid these tree planting errors:Tangled roots Planting too shallow Planting too deep Air pocketsTurned up roots (this is called J rooting) Planting trees thatare not tolerant of wet soils in poorly drained areas Plantingover rocks, septic tanks and leach fields, on sand mounds CARE OF TREES FOLLOWING PLANTING Check periodically to be surethat brush, grass and other vegetation is kept under control bymowing, mulching, spraying or a combination of these treatments.Always obtain advice from a licensed pest control advisor beforeusing chemicals. You ag extension agency may offer courses inapplication of chemicals. Monitoring the appearance of yourtrees will help you to detect signs of insects, diseases orother problems. Apperances also help sell your product. Look forfoliage turning yellow, new foliage drooping or other signs ofpoor health. It is easier to take successful corrective actionif the problem is detected early. Over watering is a common problem in irrigated plantations. Youprobably won’t need to water more frequently than every 7-10days. Give your trees a thorough, deep soak and then let thesoil dry out before the next watering. This encourages the rootsto grow down in search of water. Frequent, shallow wateringencourages root growth near the surface and the trees are moredependent on irrigation and are less windfirm. Animals can be amajor cause of damage to young trees. Porcupines, gophers, mice,rabbits, deer and cattle are the most frequent source of damage.In many states you may have to call your game commission and gettheir recomendations on legal methods to protect your crop. Inour state, you can get help from the Pa. Game Commission to killdeer that are a threat to your seedlings or obtain a free fenceto keep deer away from your seedlings. Over the years we havelost more trees to mice than any other animal. Put rat baits outon a regular basis. Over the years we have lost more seedlingsand plants to mice than any other culprit including deer andrabbitts combined. You an see more articles about the care oftrees plants and nursery stock at our web sitehttp://www.seedlingsrus.com and http://www.highlandhillfarm.com
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